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Home Appliance Troubleshooting and Repair

Discussion in 'Appliance Troubleshooting' started by yus15, Feb 28, 2014.

  1. yus15

    yus15 Support Team Staff Member Support Team


    Warning!
    To avoid personal injury or death, always unplug the appliance or disconnect the power before attempting any repairs. Always turn off the gas at the source before repairing any gas appliance. Always wear safety glasses when using tools. Keep loose clothing and hair away from any moving parts. Safety is of major importance when performing any service or repair on any electrical appliance.

    Dryer Troubleshooting and Repair

    Electric Dryer


    It doesn't work at all


    1. No power to the dryer

    Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for a tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse. Check the wall socket for power with a voltmeter or by plugging something else in. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

    2. Door switch / Door switch actuator lever

    The dryer would not start with a broken door switch. Replace the door switch if found defective.

    Most dryers have a door switch actuator lever - when you close a dryer door, it presses against the lever, which actuates the door switch. If the lever is broken, the switch would not activate and the dryer would not start. Replace the lever, if broken.

    Note: Door switch actuator lever usually comes with the door switch assembly and it is recommended to get the whole assembly since there is almost no price difference between the door switch assembly and just the lever. Check your model for more details.

    There's no heat

    1. No power to the dryer

    Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

    2. Heating element

    A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

    3. Thermal fuse

    Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

    It takes too long to dry

    Note: Normal drying time for a dryer is about 45 minutes (some may take up to an hour).


    1. Venting

    Make sure the dryer vent hose, as well as the rest of the vent duct, is not clogged.

    Unless regular maintenance is performed, chances are there is a lot of lint accumulated inside the dryer. This might affect the drying time and could be a fire hazard. Make sure to have your dryer cleaned regularly. Because this might involve taking most of the dryer apart, it is recommended to have a qualified appliance repairman perform this task.

    2. Thermostat

    There are a couple of cycling thermostats inside the dryer. If one of them breaks down, it might affect the dryer's performance. Replace the defective thermostat.

    3. Heating element

    A heating element might only be partially burned out, in which case it would still work but will take longer time to dry the clothes. Replace the element if found defective.

    Freezer Troubleshooting and Repair

    It doesn’t power on
    1. Check outlet
      Make sure the freezer is actually plugged in and that the outlet is functioning properly. If the outlet is working correctly, take it one step further and check the circuit breaker in your home.

    2. Check indicator light
      If your light is flashing this indicates that the power to the freezer went off recently. Whether switched off by accident or you had a recent power outage to your home, unplug for 30 minutes and plug in again.
    3. Compressor/Start relay
      If your freezer powers on but you hear a clicking sound and can feel the compressor vibrate, this is a sign that you need a new starter relay. Another sign is if your unit powers on and off every few minutes.
    It runs continuously
    1. Thermostat
      The thermostat determines whether or not the compressor is running. When the thermostat senses the internal temperature is lower than the setting, it turns off. If the thermostat won’t cycle off, the thermostat may be bad - if it is, you will have to replace it.

    2. Freezer thermometer
      You may also have the temperature set too high in the freezer. Try adjusting the thermostat to a lower temperature. If this turns the compressor off, you may have had it set too high. With the help of a freezer thermometer, you can find a more ideal setting that will keep your food cold, but not so cold that the compressor is always running. If raising the temperature setting doesn’t help, it may be a problem with the thermostat and you will need to replace it.
    3. Damaged gasket
      Gaskets help to seal your freezer unit, thus keeping the cool air in and blocking room temperature or warmer temperatures. If you find that your gasket is not sealing temperatures correctly, replace it for optimal results.
    It doesn’t freeze
    1. Thermostat
      May need to be replaced.

    2. Defrost timer
      If you set the thermostat to a colder setting and it fails to freeze, check the accuracy of the defrost timer. Test this by manually advancing to the defrost cycle. You can usually manually advance this timer with a screwdriver. Insert the screwdriver into the advancement pinion and turn clockwise 1/4 to 3/8 of a turn. The timer should advance out of the defrost cycle in less than an hour.

    3. Cold control
      To test if the cold control is bad, you can temporarily jump the two wires at the cold control. If this jumping gets power to the compressor, the cold control needs to be replaced.

    4. Compressor
      Check to see whether you can hear the compressor motor making a steady noise. If it’s humming or making a steady noise, and your freezer is still not cooling properly, there could be a problem with one or more various components. If it is running but your freezer is still not cooling at all, there may be a problem with the condenser or evaporator coils.

    5. Evaporator coils
      Sometimes the evaporator coils get frozen over and air can't pass over them. This can result in your freezer not freezing properly. You can manually defrost your freezer by turning it off for 24-48 hours and then turning it back on to see if it begins to work properly. These coils can get dirty, and when they do they will not transfer heat or cold very well.
    It experiences frost build-up
    1. Door gaskets
      You may even have damaged door gaskets. When you open the freezer door, you also let in a blast of warm, often humid air. This moisture usually freezes onto the evaporator coils immediately.

    2. Defrost heater
      Self-defrost freezers are supposed to self-defrost themselves. Every 6-12 hours they turn off the compressor for a few minutes. A defrost heater then turns on to melt any frost build-up on these coils, which allows the frost and ice to melt. Then it drains off to the pan underneath. Unfortunately, though, when a component fails, too much frost can build up on the evaporator coils. With no air flow over the coils, cooling in the freezer compartment becomes almost non-existent.

    3. Defrost thermostat
      The defrost thermostat is a temperature controlling device within the automatic defrost system of a freezer. When the defrost thermostat senses that the coils are too cold, it signals the heater to activate and melt any excess ice build-up. If it is not working it would not activate the heater, which could result in excessive frost build-up.

    4. Defrost timer
      Test the accuracy of the defrost timer. Do this by manually advancing to the defrost cycle by inserting a screwdriver into the advancement pinion and turning clockwise 1/4 to 3/8 of a turn. The timer should advance out of the defrost cycle in less than an hour.
    It is noisy
    1. Check your compressor
      The compressor moves the coolant through the unit, and the fan moves the air. Both have spinning motors that need lubricant to remain in good working order. When these items begin to fail, if they don't shut down completely you will hear the high pitched noise of metal rubbing against metal.

    2. Level
      Make sure that your unit is level or balanced. Alter as needed to ensure even weight distribution, especially if your unit has "adjustable feet" that you can alter with a wrench.
    The coils are frosting up
    1. Defrost timer
      If the freezer coils are frosting up, the defrost timer could be malfunctioning. Numerous times throughout the day, the defrost timer should cycle the defrost heater on as a means to melt frost build-up on the evaporator coils in the freezer. If this timer does not cycle on, then it may be faulty and require replacement.

    2. Defrost heater assembly
      If the freezer evaporator coils are icing over, this could be an indication that your defrost heater assembly has failed. This could cause the frost to accrue on the evaporator coils, eventually blocking the airflow and resulting in the unit not cooling properly. The defrost heater assembly can be monitored for continuity using an ohm meter and will need to replaced if there is none present.

    3. Defrost thermostat
      If the freezer evaporator coils are icing over, it could be due to a faulty defrost thermostat. A requirement for the defrost heater to activate to melt away frost on the evaporator coils is a functional defrost thermostat. The defrost thermostat senses the temperature of the evaporator coils and initiates the thawing process by activating the defrost heater. If the thermostat is faulty, it will not sense the lowering temperature of the coils and will not turn on the heater, resulting in an advanced frost build-up. The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity by using an ohm meter; if there is no continuity, the damaged part will need to be replaced.

    4. Freezer door gasket
      If the problem you are having is that the freezer coils are icing over, it could be the freezer gasket. The gasket itself can tear over time, preventing the door from shutting properly. Frost accumulates on the top shelf due to humid air that flows into the unit due to the malfunctioning gasket. When this humidity comes in contact with the cold evaporator coils, it condenses and freezes, which could cause icing on the evaporator coils.
    Indicator light is out
    1. Indicator
      If the indicator light in your freezer is not coming on, the complete indicator will have to be replaced. This is because the bulb inside the indicator is not sold as a separate part.

    2. User control and display board
      If you checked and replaced your freezer indicator light but it continues to malfunction by not powering on, check your user control and display board next.
    It only freezes top shelf

    If the problem you are having is that only the top shelf is freezing in your freezer, it could be due to a low amount of Freon. In a non-frost free upright total freezer, the shelves are actually the Freon lines, and a low Freon level could cause this issue. If there is a sealed system leak, it could be anywhere in the unit -- however, frost will accumulate on the first shelf with which it comes in contact. This issue is often misdiagnosed as a door gasket.
     
    bigpanda and JhoLou like this.
  2. yus15

    yus15 Support Team Staff Member Support Team

    Microwave Troubleshooting and Repair

    It won't run
    1. Inspect the power cord
      Unplug the power cord and check for voltage at the outlet. Also inspect for damage, shorts, or burn marks that can be a possible safety hazard.
    2. Bad door switch
      If your microwave does not work at all and you know everything is plugged in properly and the outlet is functioning, then also check the door hooks and the door release button. Using a volt-ohm meter on RX1, check your terminals. When your microwave door is closed you should have a reading of zero. Once the door is open the reading should change to infinity. If these readings do not match up, replacement of the door switch is necessary.
    3. Blown fuses
      To determine if your fuse has blown out, which may attribute to your microwave not running, you need to pull the fuse out using a pair of fuse pullers. Lay it down and using a volt-ohm meter on RX1, check both ends of the fuse in question. If you do not get a reading of zero, then you will need to replace the fuse.
    4. Bad fan motor
      Locate the fan and remove the leads. Again using the volt-ohm meter on RX1, check the terminals. If an infinity reading is displayed, it means that the fan has gone bad and requires replacement.
    It doesn’t produce heat
    1. Check the power diode
      This electronic component is responsible for transmitting current in one direction. If the diode becomes defective it will cause your microwave to not heat. Test the diode and replace it if necessary.
    2. High voltage capacitor
      Responsible for storing electricity, this part is a key component in any microwave. Remove, discharge, and test the capacitor to determine if it requires replacement.
    3. Damaged magnetron
      Responsible for generating waves and producing heat. When your microwave is no longer heating properly, replacement will be required.
    4. Thermal Cutoffs
      Examine the thermal cutoffs on both the magnetron and the oven itself. Take off one of the leads and using a volt-ohm meter on RX1, check the terminals. If you get a result other than zero, replace the thermal cutoffs.
    Unable to adjust power levels

    If you are unable to adjust the power level, there may be a defective triac or a problem with the circuit board.

    Touchpad control panel doesn't work

    1. Controller is confused
      A power surge or random non-reproducible action of the universe may have resulted in the controller's program ending up in an infinite loop. Pull the plug for a minute or two to reset it.
    2. Defective Interlock switches
      This can result in the controller thinking the door is open and ignoring you.
    3. Cleaning
      Cleaning solutions (spray cleaner) may have gotten inside and shorted out the touchpad or controller. If this happens remove the touchpad, let it air dry for a few days, and then attach it back on the microwave.
    Turntable won’t turn

    If the carousel inside your microwave won’t turn when you run it, the small motor that operates it may be broken.

    Light bulb doesn’t work

    1. Light bulb
      If your microwave light bulb is not working, perhaps it has blown. The first step is to replace the bulb and power on the microwave. If this does not correct the issue, the next step is to check the socket and wiring to verify if that is the problem.
    2. Light bulb socket & main control board
      If your microwave light bulb is not working after the installation of a new bulb, check the light socket as well as the wiring to ensure they are properly operating. If these sources are functioning properly, the next step is to check for a faulty control board as a possible root cause to your microwave light bulb malfunction.
    It runs for a few seconds, then stops
    1. Main control board
      If your microwave runs for a few seconds and stops, the first thing to check is the main control board to ensure that a shortage has not occurred. If the part is defective then it will need to be replaced to prevent continual shut offs. If this is not the issue, the next step would be to check for a faulty touchpad.
    2. Touchpad/Control panel
      If the control board is not the issue and your microwave continues to shut off after running for only a few seconds, the next thing to check is your touchpad, which is also known as a control panel. Although uncommon for this issue, symptoms are usually that the display and some buttons are working properly; however, when selected some buttons are not functioning. If this is the case the touchpad will need to be replaced.
    Display doesn’t work
    1. Main control board
      If the display on your microwave has gone out completely this is usually a sign that it is a malfunctioned main control board. To correct the issue the main control board would need to be replaced.
    2. Display board
      A display board can either malfunction completely or partially, causing two separate results. If the display on the unit has completely gone out, this can be attributed to either a bad main control board or display board. On the other hand, if the display has only partially gone out, this is usually a sign that the display board is defective and will need to be replaced.
    It turns itself on
    1. Interlock switch
      If your microwave is turning itself on, the first thing to check is the interlock switch. This is usually the first thing to malfunction that could cause this issue. If the interlock switch is bad then it will need to be replaced.
    2. Main control board
      If your microwave is turning itself on and the interlock switch is still working, the probable cause is the main control board. If the control board is defective it will need to be replaced.
    It is sparking or arcing
    1. Waveguide cover
      Sparking and arcing in a microwave can be caused by a damaged waveguide cover. Try removing the waveguide cover to see if the problem persists. Once removed, the waveguide cover can be inspected for burns, which will indicate if this is the issue. If the waveguide cover is burnt or will not stay in the proper spot it will need to be replaced.
    2. Cavity/Rack support
      If sparking or arcing in your microwave is near a rack support, any exposed metallic area can be covered with a microwave cavity support. It is also recommended to replace the rack supports in this situation to ensure the issue is resolved.
    3. Cavity paint
      If sparking or arcing in the microwave is visible on the side walls, the paint covering the metallic areas could have worn off or chipped. This can possibly cause pitting in the side walls or ceiling. If this is the case, it can be repaired with microwave cavity paint.
    Door will not open
    1. Open lever
      Check your microwave lever to determine if it is damaged. If it is broken, simply replace the lever to get your microwave door fully functional again.
    2. Door spring
      Responsible for keeping downward pressure on the door hook, the microwave door spring can begin to malfunction. If this part is broken and prevents you from opening your microwave door, replacement is necessary.
    3. Door latch
      One reason your microwave door may not open properly is a broken door latch. Located inside the microwave, the door latch manipulates the door hook to keep the door closed for safety and top performance. If broken, the door could become stuck in the locked position.
    4. Door hook
      If your microwave door will not release properly, the door hook could be damaged. Located inside the door, the door hook is made of plastic and prone to breakage with extended use or age. As this part is unable to be repaired, the only option is to replace it.
    5. Button or button spring
      If the microwave door will not open, it could be an internal failure of the button or button spring. If it is determined that either of these parts is the source, both are replaceable and it is recommended that they be installed at the same time.
    6. Handle actuator
      If the microwave door will not open the plastic handle actuator could be broken. Connected between the door button and the door latch assembly, this plastic part could become damaged and brittle over time, which makes breaking inevitable. If this occurs, replace the handle actuator to get your microwave fully functional again.
    Exhaust fan not working
    1. Exhaust fan motor
      If your exhaust fan motor is not running, there are a couple of things that you can check involving the motor to locate the problem. After removing the fan motor, you can manually attempt to turn the fan blades with your hand. If the fan motor is working properly, the blades should spin effortlessly. If this does not occur and the blades are taught, the motor will need to be replaced. Secondly, the fan motor itself can burn out due to time and usage. Using an ohm meter, the exhaust fan motor should read open for continuity. If it does not, then the fan motor has expired and will need to be replaced.
    2. Thermostat
      Another part that could cause the microwave exhaust fan to not work is a faulty thermostat. A thermostat gauges the air temperature, which activates the exhaust fan when required. If this part becomes flawed, the exhaust fan will not energize and the thermostat will need to be replaced.
    3. Main control board
      If your exhaust fan is still not working and the microwave fan motor, wiring, and thermostat are operating accurately, the root cause could be with the main control board. Replace the main control board.
    It is loud or noisy



      • Magnetron
        If your microwave is emanating high pitched or growling noises during operation, the magnetron could be going bad. Normally a nearly silent part, the magnetron uses high voltage and induces the frequency required to cook food. Although normally not a safety hazard to operate, this is a sign that the magnetron is failing and will need to be replaced as soon as possible.
      • Exhaust fan motor
        If your microwave is making a very loud humming noise during operation, it could possibly be the exhaust fan motor. If defective the part will need to be replaced to silence the appliance once more.
      • Stirrer motor
        Another leading cause of a noisy microwave is an expired stirrer motor. With use this part becomes worn and makes a loud grinding noise, which is usually a leading indicator that the part needs to be replaced. The stirrer is a metal blade that is slowly turned by the motor. This action disperses the microwave energy in a random pattern, which heats the food evenly. If the stirrer motor is determined to be nearing expiration, it should be replaced to halt the grinding noise.
      • Turntable motor
        A very common cause for a noisy microwave is a worn out turntable motor. This is a relatively easy repair and will put an end to the noise once replaced.
    Oven and Range Troubleshooting and Repair

    Gas Range


    It doesn't work at all

    No power
    Make sure there's power getting to your range, oven or cook top. Check for a tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse. Check the wall socket for power with a voltmeter or by plugging something else in.

    Top burner doesn't work

    A lot of times the problem is with a dirty or a clogged burner. Make sure the burner is clean. If you have a pilotless model, it uses a spark igniter to ignite the gas, which works in a combination with a spark switch (located on the burner gas valve) and a spark module. Because it is not simple to test these parts and find out which one is defective, we recommend to contact a professional appliance technician.

    It doesn't bake

    Bake igniter
    When the bake igniter becomes weak or burns out, your oven would not bake. The bake igniter is usually mounted on the oven burner. It's about 1 inch by 4-8 inches (depending on the model), and comes in round or flat styles. If you don't see the igniter glow at all, it's probably burned out. Replace the igniter if found defective. Note: one of the exceptions could be that your oven is set to automatic mode instead of manual. If this is the case, set your oven to manual mode and check again.

    If the bake igniter glows red and not bright yellow or white, it is probably because it is too weak. When this happens, the safety valve would not let the gas out into the oven burner. A weak igniter must be replaced.

    A faulty igniter is probably the most common cause, however there are others:

    -- defective thermostat
    -- defective selector switch
    -- defective gas safety valve

    If you are certain the igniter is ok, it might be a good idea to call a professional appliance technician.

    It doesn't broil

    Broil igniter
    When the broil igniter becomes weak or burns out, your oven would not broil. The broil igniter is usually mounted on the oven burner. It's about 1 inch by 4-8 inches (depending on the model), and comes in round or flat styles. If you don't see the igniter glow at all, it's probably burned out. Replace the igniter if found defective. Note: one of the exceptions could be that your oven is set to automatic mode instead of manual. If this is the case, set your oven to manual mode and check again.

    If the broil igniter glows red and not bright yellow or white, it is probably because it is too weak. When this happens, the safety valve would not let the gas out into the oven burner. A weak igniter must be replaced.

    A faulty igniter is probably the most common cause, however there are others:

    -- defective thermostat
    -- defective selector switch
    -- defective gas safety valve

    If you are certain the igniter is ok, it might be a good idea to call a professional appliance technician.

    Electric Range

    It doesn't work at all

    1. No power
    Make sure there's power getting to your range, oven or cooktop. Check for a tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse. Check the wall socket for power with a voltmeter. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the appliance, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

    Top element doesn't work

    1. Top element
    If the element only works partially or not getting red hot at the "Hi" setting, the problem might be with a burned out receptacle that the element plugs into. If this is the case, replace both the element and the receptacle.

    You can usually tell when the element itself burns out. It might have small holes or bubbles on the coil. Replace the element, if found defective.

    2. Infinite switch
    Another reason, why the element would not start, might be a defective infinite switch (located behind the control panel, with the burner knob on its shaft). Replace the switch if found defective.

    It doesn't bake

    1. Bake element
    Replace if found defective

    It doesn't broil

    1. Broil element
    Replace if found defective
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2014
    bigpanda and JhoLou like this.
  3. yus15

    yus15 Support Team Staff Member Support Team

    Refrigerator Troubleshooting and Repair

    It doesn’t run

    1. Check outlet
      Make sure the refrigerator is actually plugged in and that the outlet is functioning properly. If the outlet is working correctly, take it one step further and check the circuit breaker in your home.
    2. Check connections/wiring
      Check your connections to make sure there is no corrosion.
    3. Compressor
      If your compressor fails to operate this may be an indication that it is time to replace the defrost timer.
    4. Overload relay
      If your overload relay continues to shut off in spurts then the part is weak and requires replacement.
    5. Thermostat
      It is likely that you have a bad thermostat. Try resetting by turning it off, then on to reboot. If this fails replace the part.
    It doesn’t cool
    1. Condenser coils
      Make sure you dust off the condenser coils to prevent dust build up and overheating due to it overworking. Simply unplug and use a long coil cleaning brush to get rid of debris.

    2. Check seals
      If your refrigerator door seal is broken, warm air is pushing its way inside the unit, thus causing it to not cool properly. Prevent this from happening by replacing your seal and keeping the cool air inside.

    3. Temperature controls
      Ensure that your thermostat is set correctly, usually 38-40 degrees Fahrenheit.

    4. Defective condenser fan
      When this fan is defective, cold air is prevented from flowing through the vents. It may require replacement.

    5. Compressor issues
      Check if there are clicking sounds coming from the compressor as it tries to start. If there is a clicking, it is one of only two options, either the start capacitor or a bad compressor. A start capacitor is fairly inexpensive whereas a sealed system repair on the compressor is very expensive and often not cost effective.
    Too cold (freezing food)
    1. Check your freezer thermostat setting
      The freezer determines the coolness of the refrigerator. If this temperature is set too high or accidently moved, it could sometimes result in items on the top shelf of the refrigerator becoming frozen. Adjust the thermostat accordingly to see if this resolves the problem.

    2. Fan motor
      The circulating fan can be blowing the cold air through the freezer, then down through the fridge and eventually back up to the cooling unit. Replacing this part can fix this problem.
    It makes excessive noise
    1. Internal compressor problem
      The compressor moves the coolant through the unit, and the fan moves the air. Both have spinning motors that need lubricant to remain in good working order. When these items begin to fail, if they don't shut down completely, you will hear the high-pitched noise of metal rubbing against metal. One solution is to level or balance the "adjustable feet" of your appliance to promote even distributions.

    2. Evaporator fan defective
      If your fan no longer operates correctly you must fix the loose fan to prevent the sound from occurring. Make sure you let it defrost and then repair/replace.

    3. Defrost water pan rattles
      If the pan rattles when it is replaced, this is an indication that it is being placed too close to the compressor. Solve this problem by repositioning the tray.
    Water leaking inside it
    1. Check the lines to your dispenser
      If the lines to your dispenser are broken or damaged you will need to replace them.

    2. Damaged drain pan
      If your drain pan has holes or ©râcks it will also need to be replaced.

    3. Clogged drain
      If you experience any clogged drains, they must also be unclogged or replace. If you experience this at the ceiling of your unit it can be attributed to a clog in the freezer section. Remove the divider and let the insulation thaw out and dry.
    Ice maker not functioning or producing ice cubes
    1. Check connections
      Check all hose connections to ensure that water is being transmitted through your appliance and there is no frost build up.

    2. Feeler arm
      Double check to make sure your feeler arm is not stuck or that ice cubes are not blocking the feeler arm's motion to produce more ice.

    3. Ice maker heater
      The heater may be stuck on. The heater comes on for 1-2 minutes to break cubes free from mold. If the heater stays on too long ,the ice maker will get hot and stop making ice. Carefully feel around the ice maker mold; if it is hot to the touch, the heater is on. This indicates that the ice maker is jammed, and it is better to replace ice maker than to try and repair it.

    4. Water inlet valve
      The water valve supplying the ice maker is a key component of the ice-making system. When the ice maker calls for ice, its switch closes an electrical circuit and energizes the solenoid-operated water valve. This allows water to flow through the valve and into the ice cube tray. The water is frozen into cubes, and the cubes are dumped into the ice bin. When this part is not operating correctly, a repair/replacement part may be needed.
    Water dispenser doesn’t work
    1. Dispenser control board
      If the water dispenser is not functioning at all the most likely cause is going to be the dispenser control board. The dispenser control board governs the major portion of the systematic functions of the dispenser and is less likely to be the issue if only certain components are malfunctioning. If the dispenser control board is at fault, it will need to be replaced.

    2. Water inlet valve & low water pressure from house supply
      If the water dispenser on your refrigerator is not working properly, one of the first things to consider as an issue is the water pressure to your appliance. The water dispenser cannot properly function with a psi less than 20. If psi is appropriate, proceed to replace the water inlet valve to correct the issue. You may also be dealing with low household water pressure. This low flow can be examined by using a water pressure test gauge. Once the household water pressure is resolved, you can double check your refrigerator connection to ensure it is now flowing properly and that the water dispenser is functioning.

    3. Water tube in door is frozen
      If the water dispenser is not working on your refrigerator, the issue could be a frozen water supply tube located in the door. Although this may be a tricky problem to locate, the first thing to do is find a connection point in the tube. After this has been found, attempt to blow air through the tube. If the air flows freely through the tube, it is not frozen and this is not the issue. If it does not, the tube is frozen and needs to be removed to thaw out. As it thaws, attempt to ascertain why it froze and correct the positioning of the tubing to prevent the issue from occurring again in the future.

    4. Dispenser switch
      If the refrigerator water dispenser is not working properly you could be dealing with a defective dispenser switch. Activated by the dispenser actuator, the switches are responsible for numerous actions including ice cube disbursement, type of ice, and water controls. The switch can be tested using an ohm meter and should be replaced if it does not reveal continuity.

    5. Water filter
      If your water dispenser’s flow is running slow check to ensure that your water filter is not clogged. If after checking you determine that the filter is clogged, simply replace the filter. Filters should be replaced every six months to ensure clean drinking water.

    6. Door switch
      If the refrigerator water dispenser is not working, the functionality of the door switch can be inspected. This switch is responsible for turning on the light in the freezer and simultaneously turning off the water dispenser when the freezer door is opened. If this switch malfunctions, it will show no continuity on the ohm meter and will require replacement.
    Ice dispenser doesn’t work
    1. Dispenser control board
      If the ice dispenser is not functioning at all the most likely cause is going to be the dispenser control board. The dispenser control board governs the major portion of the systematic functions of the dispenser and is less likely to be the issue if only certain components are malfunctioning. If the dispenser control board is at fault, it will need to be replaced.

    2. Water inlet valve & low water pressure from house supply
      If the ice dispenser on your refrigerator is not working properly, one of the first things to consider as an issue is the water pressure to your appliance. The ice dispenser cannot properly function with a psi less than 20. If psi is appropriate, proceed to replace the water inlet valve to correct the issue. You may also be dealing with low household water pressure. This low flow can be examined by using a water pressure test gauge. Once the household water pressure is resolved, you can double check your refrigerator connection to ensure it is now flowing properly and that the ice dispenser is functioning.

    3. Water tube in door is frozen
      If the ice dispenser is not working on your refrigerator, the issue could be a frozen water supply tube located in the door. Although this may be a tricky problem to locate, the first thing to do is find a connection point in the tube. After this has been found, attempt to blow air through the tube. If the air flows freely through the tube, it is not frozen and this is not the issue. If it does not, the tube is frozen and needs to be removed to thaw out. As it thaws, attempt to ascertain why it froze and correct the positioning of the tubing to prevent the issue from occurring again in the future.

    4. Dispenser switch
      If the refrigerator ice dispenser is not working properly you could be dealing with a defective dispenser switch. Activated by the dispenser actuator, the switches are responsible for numerous actions including ice cube disbursement, type of ice, and water controls. The switch can be tested using an ohm meter and should be replaced if it does not reveal continuity.

    5. Door switch
      If the refrigerator ice dispenser is not working, the functionality of the door switch can be inspected. This switch is responsible for turning on the light in the freezer and simultaneously turning off the ice dispenser when the freezer door is opened. If this switch malfunctions, it will show no continuity on the ohm meter and will require replacement.
     
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  4. yus15

    yus15 Support Team Staff Member Support Team

    It doesn’t defrost
    1. Defrost control board
      If the defrost function is not working on your refrigerator it could be an issue with the defrost control board. This control board oversees several internal conditions and regulates the activation of the defrost cycle. A faulty board can be the primary reason your refrigeration unit is not transitioning to the defrost cycle. Over time, the buildup of ice on the evaporator coil will prevent the refrigerator and freezer from maintaining proper internal temperature. It is advisable to first check the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat for continuity prior to replacing the defrost control board.

    2. Main control board
      A possible cause for a refrigerator not defrosting, especially on more modern units, is the main control board. The main control board acts as a “brain” for the unit controlling the defrost cycle, compressor, and run time, and essentially acts in place of the defrost timer. The control board can be tested using an ohm meter for functionality and will need to be replaced if bad.

    3. Defrost timer
      If the refrigerator is not defrosting the timer could be malfunctioning. Numerous times throughout the day the defrost timer should cycle the defrost heater on as a means to melt frost buildup on the evaporator coils in the freezer. If this timer does not cycle on, then it may be faulty and require replacement.

    4. Defrost heater assembly
      If your refrigerator is not defrosting accurately this could be an indication that your defrost heater assembly has failed. This could cause the frost to accrue on the evaporator coils, eventually blocking the airflow resulting in the unit not cooling properly. The defrost heater assembly can be monitored for continuity using an ohm meter and will need to replaced if there is none present.

    5. Defrost thermostat
      Another cause of your refrigerator not defrosting is a faulty defrost thermostat. A requirement for the defrost heater to activate to melt away frost on the evaporator coils is a functional defrost thermostat. The defrost thermostat senses the temperature of the evaporator coils and initiates the thawing process by activating the defrost heater. If the thermostat is faulty, it will not sense the lowering temperature of the coils and will not turn on the heater, resulting in an advanced frost build-up. The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity by using an ohm meter; if there is no continuity the damaged part will need to be replaced.

    6. Defrost sensor with fuse
      Another possible cause of a refrigerator that does not defrost properly is a defrost sensor with a fuse. If the defrost sensor fails, the fuse acts as a one-time-only fail safe for the sensor -- if the sensor does not shut off the defrost heater, the fuse will blow when the set temperature is reached. This safety precaution is to keep excessive harm from your unit by the heater and is a one-time use, resulting in the replacement of the entire defrost sensor.
    Defrost drain problems
    1. Clogged or freezing defrost drain
      If you are experiencing defrost drain issues, it is possibly due to a clogged or freezing drain that is blocking water flow to the bottom of the freezer. This will cause the defrost water to drain and drip down to the bottom of the freezer section. To correct this issue, thaw any ice or remove debris that could be causing the clogged drain or replace the drain heater.

    2. Drain heater
      If you are experiencing defrost drain problems, inspect the defrost drain heater. A dislocated or burnt out drain heater will result in the drain tube freezing over. Attempt to return the part to the designated position or replace the damaged part to correct the issue.
    Freezer is cold but refrigerator is warm
    1. Evaporator coils are frosted over
      If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the first step is to check the defrost system for problems. A key indicator in determining if perhaps you have a refrigeration defrost problem is visible frost on the evaporator coils. If your unit has frost you will need to check your defrost heater assembly, the defrost control, and the evaporator fan motor for a malfunction. Replace any erroneous parts as necessary.

    2. Damper
      If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the damper door could be broken or jammed. The damper is a door that opens and closes to allow cool air to flow from the freezer into the refrigerator unit, and if it fails to operate correctly, not enough cold air will enter the refrigerator to keep it cold. The damper can be replaced if it is no longer operating properly.

    3. Thermistor
      If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the thermistor connected to the control board might be defective. The thermistor is a sensor that examines the temperature inside the unit. If the part is defective, the refrigerator could not cool properly.

    4. Temperature control board
      If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the temperature control board could be at fault. The temperature control board distributes voltage to the fan motors and compressor to keep them functioning. This board is very often misdiagnosed as the culpable cause and it is recommended to proceed with the troubleshooting process of elimination prior to replacing this part.

    5. Defrost thermostat
      Another issue that can cause your freezer to be cold while the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be is the defrost thermostat. In order for the defrost heater to activate to melt away any excessive frosting on the evaporator coils, the defrost thermostat must sense that the temperature is cold enough to activate the defrost heater. Without this continuous cycle, the frost will excessively build up on the coils and prevent proper air flow inside the unit. The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity with an ohm meter; if it’s not present, the thermostat will need to be replaced.

    6. Main control board
      A possible cause for a freezer that’s cold but refrigerator that’s not as cold as it should be is the main control board. The main control board acts as a “brain” for the unit, controlling the defrost cycle, compressor, and run time. However, it is an uncommon cause for this issue. This board is very often misdiagnosed as the culpable cause and it is recommended to proceed with the troubleshooting process of elimination prior to replacing this part.
    Ice maker overflows
    1. Water inlet valve & low water pressure from house supply
      If you have an ice maker that is overflowing, the first thing to check is the status of the water pressure to the water inlet valve. The water inlet valve requires a minimum pressure of 20 psi to shut off properly and can be checked using a water pressure test gauge. Pressure at a lower amount than this can cause the valve to not fully shut off once the power is disconnected, which results in the water inlet valve leaking water into the ice maker and causing it to overflow. If the pressure is above 20 psi and you are getting an overflow it is recommended to replace the water inlet valve.

    2. Ice maker assembly
      If you are experiencing an overflow of water from the ice maker and the water inlet valve and water pressure are functioning normally, the next step would be to replace the complete ice maker assembly. Although a less common cause of this issue, replacing the assembly will correct the leaking problem.
    Light doesn’t work
    1. Light bulb
      If your refrigerator light does not power on, the first thing to replace would logically be the light bulb itself.

    2. Light assembly
      If your refrigerator light does not power on and you have replaced the bulb, this is an indication that the light assembly may have malfunctioned and will require replacement.

    3. Light switch
      If you notice that your refrigerator lights are not working, replace your refrigerator light bulb. If this does not correct the issue, proceed to check the power light switch.

    4. Door switch
      If your refrigerator light is not working and it is not the bulb itself or the power light switch, the next thing to check is the door switch. This can be checked for continuity with an ohm meter. If there is no continuity present, the door switch will need to be replaced.

    5. Light socket
      If your refrigerator light is not working after replacing the light bulb, check for a possible damaged light socket. If the socket is faulty, replace the part to get your refrigerator light to power on again.

    6. Light board
      If the refrigerator light is not working the light board could be defective. The LEDs on this board are not repairable, so the entire board will need to be replaced.
     
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  5. yus15

    yus15 Support Team Staff Member Support Team

    Washing Machine Troubleshooting and Repair

    It doesn't work at all

    1. No power to the washer
      Make sure there's power getting to the washer. Check for a tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse. Check the wall socket for power. Sometimes the power cord disconnects at the washer, if this is the case, the wiring must be repaired or replaced.
    2. Lid switch
      The washing machine may not function if the lid switch is defective. The switch is usually located near the door. Replace if found defective.
    It fills and drains at the same time
    1. Drain hose
      The drain hose might be too low. Make sure the drain hose is at least three feet above the floor.
    2. Clogged drain line or water pump
      Check to see if there's something stuck inside the pump or the drain hose connected to the pump (pump is usually located at the bottom and towards the back of the washing machine).
    3. Water Pump
      If the drain line isn't clogged, you may have a problem with the water pump such as a frozen pulley or a broken impeller. If that's the case replace the water pump. Note: if you have a belt driven washer, check the belt(s) for ©râcks, as this would be a perfect time to replace the belt(s) if needed.
    It doesn’t drain
    1. Lid switch assembly
      If the washer will not drain a very common issue is that the lid switch assembly has malfunctioned. The lid switch can fail either mechanically or electrically and should be tested with an ohm meter for continuity. If the part has failed it will need to be replaced.
    2. Drain pump or hose
      If the lid switch assembly is functioning, the next thing to check for is a clogged pump or hose. Small clothing (especially baby clothing or socks) can get sucked into the drain system and clog the hose that leads to the pump, or even the pump itself. You can also check to see if there is a kink in the hose and check the functionality of the drain pump. When removing the hoses to check for obstructions, keep in mind that any water remaining in the washer will flow out when the hoses are removed. Therefore it is good to have towels prepared in case this happens.
    3. Water pump belt
      If there is no obstruction in the pump or hose, the next thing to check is the water pump belt. These belts wear out and break over time, and will need to be replaced if broken or showing excessive wear.
    4. Drive belt
      If the washer is still not draining, the next thing to check is the drive belt. If this belt is worn, broken, or not on the pulley system, the washer will possibly not drain at all. If the belt has excessive wear or is broken it will need to be replaced.
    5. Coin trap
      If the washer is not draining and everything is functioning, the final thing to check is the coin trap. This device is located near the water pump and it catches any foreign materials that make their way down the drain. This part often has an access panel and can normally be cleaned very easily.
    1. Water Inlet Valve
      Replace if found defective.
    Credits to the original owner :)
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2014
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  6. nice share boss yus15yus15 (y) gamitin natin ito :D
     
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  7. yus15

    yus15 Support Team Staff Member Support Team

    Wala pa po kasing ganito dito kaya nag-share po ako :)
     
  8. tsok111

    tsok111 Eternal Poster Established

  9. yus15

    yus15 Support Team Staff Member Support Team

    All in 1 :)
     
  10. yus15

    yus15 Support Team Staff Member Support Team

    Hehe :)
     
  11. pa bm nito dong ok ito astig
     
  12. yus15

    yus15 Support Team Staff Member Support Team

    Sige :)
     
  13. ayos tong thread mo bossing . NEW KNOWLEDGE na naman to.
     
  14. yus15

    yus15 Support Team Staff Member Support Team

    Hehe. Sana makatulong sa inyo :)
     
  15. bossing ok ito ah tnx dito kahit wala akong alam sa electronics, astig.
     
  16. yus15

    yus15 Support Team Staff Member Support Team

    Walang anuman (y)
    You're welcome (y)
     
  17. bigpanda

    bigpanda Eternal Poster Established

    very informative, marami pong salamat.
     
  18. yus15

    yus15 Support Team Staff Member Support Team

    Walang anuman :)